Sunday, July 27, 2014

Oslo-A modern European capital.

Oslo, the capital of Norway, is set well to the west and a bit to the north of Stockholm, capital of neigbouring Sweden. The journey by train to Oslo one filled with wonder and awe. The train journey takes you right across the heart of Sweden, from it’s archipelagic eastern borders to it’s greener, western country side dotted with birch trees. The slowly rising and falling hills of the Swedish landscape faded into the distance as the train covered the long miles to our destination. We stopped at various stations along the way with vaguely Russian sounding names: Karlstad, Kristinehamn, Ulricehamn; the rest slip from my memory.

I gazed at all the greenery around me and wondered; in the short month that lay between the snow and spring, the trees had managed to grow back all their leaves, flowers were blooming and the grass covered vast fields in the middle of which small clumps of trees stood like islands in the open sea. The scenery I was slowly taking in reminded me of Middle-earth, the fictional land from the books of my favourite author J.R.R Tolkien, with its untainted landscapes and perfect beauty described by skilful words and wonderful poems. The land walked by my favourite fictional characters, a land of strange landscapes and stranger people. During that journey, I could understand Tolkien as never before, and for that, I have only the Swedish people to thank, for preserving their lands and everything in it.


Oslo is not far from the Norway-Sweden border and is set on the banks of the Inner Oslofjord, a scenic inlet dotted with islands. We arrived in the Oslo Sentral Stasjon, a vast area set smack in the heart of the city. There from of the many counters manned by the kindly Norwegians, we purchased one day transport passes; all manner of public transport in Oslo was now accessible to us. We set off to our hotel immediately, for we were carrying quite a bit of luggage and we were anxious to cool off. 


Our hotel was called the Best Western Apartment hotel set in the Gamle Oslo, or the old Oslo locality. We were taken aback for a moment by the lavishness of the room we were given. For although the price for a one night stay was more than 10 times that of a similar Indian hotel, it was pretty cheap for European standards. Some rest, testing the wi-fi and a glass of coffee later, we set out for the tourist info centre, near the Oslo city hall.




Tourist info, you think might be cliched and no longer that necessary with the advent of the internet and online booking services, but no matter how much home work you do before coming to a city, the tourist info centre is THE place to go for the latest deals and advice on how to best use your passes. With help from a young Norwegian, we made a plan of everything that we should do over the two days.

Standing right by the info centre was the Oslo city hall. A majestic |_| shaped building, it was a splendid piece of architecture. Now, everyone knows that the Nobel prize ceremony is held in Stockholm every year, but what many don’t know is that the Nobel peace prize, won by the likes of Martin Luther King Jr., Nelson Mandela, Mother Teresa and more recently, Barack Obama, is awarded every year in a ceremony organized in the Oslo city hall, the jury being entirely Norwegian. Not a very surprising decision on the part of Alfred Nobel, considering the peaceful nature of the peoples of Norway. A very short distance behind the city hall lies the Inner Oslofjord, and on its banks are many piers and pontoons moored securely and all manner of water transport lined them. 

We slowly walked by the ships, some were commercial ships and tourist ferries and some were sleek and dangerous looking Norwegian naval vessels. We had to walk a couple of kilometers to get on a ferry across the Oslofjord to the various islands. As we finally got on the ferry, the mid-summer sun that had been hiding behind scattered clouds all this while finally broke through and blazed with all its glory. Being completely exposed on the open top deck of the ferry, we tried in vain to ward off the sun with small tourist brochures. 



The beauty of the place however, made me momentarily forget the heat. Oslo was surrounded by green and gently rising hills. In the stark afternoon light, the clear waters of the Oslofjord sparkled like diamonds and the islands of the inlet rose out of the water like huge ships. Everywhere around there was a calmness, ships floated lazily in and out the harbour, tourists were busy clicking pictures and birds flew above slowly gliding on the gentle winds. Since Oslo, or any Scandinavian city for that matter, gets only a few months of summer, the locals use it to their best. Oslo has countless green spaces, large and small. The islands overflow with sun bathing tourists and in no time our return ferry was filled to bursting. Though on the bright side, now we at least had shade!

Once the ferry docked, we walked to the Opera house, a short distance away. Dazzling white, it was like a beacon even in the stark sunshine. It resembled a huge ice berg slanting out of the waters of the inlet. It was an amazing piece of architecture with an impressive view of the surrounding buildings. Just behind was a cluster of ultra modern buildings, the famous Barcode project. Those buildings really surprised me. Visiting many different European cities, I was under the impression that the central area of any European city would be a symbol of preservation and a haven of ancient buildings. Now here I was, staring at many high rises in the heart of the city. The reason for that I found out later, was that the whole area surrounding the Opera house had been under water, well into the 19th century. So all the buildings in the area are relatively modern. While this area had been excavated, archaeologists had found nine sunken ships in the waters!
                                                                                                                  -to be continued

This is the first part of a multi-part series on modern day Scandinavia. Please let me know if you enjoyed it and more importantly so if you didn't, as I am always looking for ways to improve. Thank you for taking time off to read the article, come back for more!

(Click on the images to get a bigger view.)


















Saturday, July 12, 2014

How to experience Helsinki in 6 hours

After spending 16 hours on a cruise from Stockholm, we finally docked at the Helsinki west harbour. We had around 6 hours to spend in Helsinki before catching the cruise on the return trip. Now, exploring any European city in 6 hours is not an easy task (or so we thought). So we had planned on visiting only the best attractions here and not waste any time at all.

(The thing about Helsinki is that it is a really, really small city and whatever important places are there to see can be reached by foot. So if you're a cruise visitor or are here for short visit, don't buy any public transport passes.)





1. The market square
Set near the waterline, the square is like any regular crowded, peaceful European market.  Navigating your way through the masses of people and the well aimed droppings from the evil sea gulls above, you are presented with a wide variety of shops selling sea food and souvenirs, and cafes and pastry shops. A very lively place and very popular with the tourists; just be careful if you're eating something, the seagulls are ruthless and experienced thieves!









2.  The Senate square
The heart of Heksinki and its most popular tourist spot, the square is surrounded by the Government palace, the Helsinki cathedral and the main building of the Helsinki university. The square is a popular concert location and also hosts a variety of art exhibitions. The most dominating feature of the square however is the humongous cathedral.




3. The Helsinki cathedral
At the north end of Senate square, rising high above the rest of the city, the cathedral, Tuomiokirkko in Finnish, is a feat of neoclassical architecture. It’s based on the Saint Isaac's cathedral in St. Petersburg and is a must see for all Helsinki tourists. (Seriously, don't miss it. There's nothing else to see here.)






4. The Rock church
As the name suggests, the church was excavated from solid rock. One of the most visited places in the city, it is a popular concert location due to its excellent acoustics. A great place to visit to get a few moments of silence and peace in a busy city.










5. The Parliament
An impressive building to behold, it is one of the few buildings worth seeing here in Helsinki. I would recommend visiting this along with the museum of contemporary art located just opposite.






Courtesy: Wikipedia



6. Stockmann’s department store
Yes, that’s how boring Helsinki gets. A department store becomes a famous tourist spot. However, it’s seven floors of goods make it worth seeing.






Helsinki was very disappointing, to say the least. When you go to an European capital, you want to be inspired; you want to drink in the long and glorious histories of the city and its people; you go there expecting a trip that would have changed you as a person. That is exactly what you get when you visit Amsterdam, Paris or Stockholm, or even little Luxembourg. Helsinki was not so. In the end, the six hours we thought to be too less, turned out to be too much for the city and we spent an hour on the ship doing nothing. 

However, all this said, it is a relatively new city, a few hundred years old, with no great history or even an old town. It is a peculiar mix of Sweden and Russia, but sharing it’s complete eastern border with Russia and originally being a part of Sweden, that’s no great mystery. Also, contrary to popular belief, Finland is not one of the Scandinavian countries, but rather the Nordic countries. Helsinki is a great city, no doubt, with a very important global foot print, it's just not for the casual tourist.



The Helsinki skyline

The Helsinki cathedral

Suomenlinna fort

Friday, May 30, 2014

A cruise in the Baltic

The Silja Serenade

Rising 13 stories high and over 200 meters long, the Silja Serenade is one of the largest cruise-ferries in the world. (Pronounced Seal-ya) Owned and operated by the Estonian shipping company Tallink, it has been in service for more than three decades, which is hard to believe because the ship is and looks surprisingly modern.








The Stockholm archipelago

Our ship took us through the Stockholm archipelago, a group of around 30,000 islands outside Stockholm. Set in the calm waters of the Baltic, the islands are picture postcard perfect. Some are uninhabited, just enough to accommodate a few trees, and some large enough to house entire towns. For the first few hours of the 16 hour journey, we traveled alongside these islands, marveling at their serenity and largely unspoilt ecosystems. 




If the sheer beauty of it wasn't enough to astound, the clean waters and the seemingly untouched islands added to it. In such a heavily shipped area with many people living on these islands, I couldn't spot a single piece of waste. Sea gulls, ducks and various other species of birds went about their business, living and thriving in peace.









When finally the last island was in sight, I was sad to see it go by. But the open sea was waiting, in every direction there was nothing but the bluish-black waters of the Baltic. I waited eagerly for my first voyage in the open sea.







The sun at 5 in the morning!

The Baltic is a very special sea, one of the largest bodies of brackish water in the world. (Brackish water is water with salt content somewhere between that of sea water and fresh water.) Throughout the trip, we would see patches of green scum on the sea surface, covering the sea surface around our ship for large distances. After lots of time spent on Google, I would later find out that the Baltic is home to the world's largest dead zone. These are areas devoid of any sea life, deprived of oxygen. The green scum we saw was actually residue left by the algal blooms that were causing the oxygen deprivation. Yick! The Baltic states are now in talks to solve this crisis. One of the proposed methods involve a giant pump to pump oxygen into the sea!




The night club on board the ship.

The ferry is a great way to commute between Stockholm and Helsinki, and have fun at the same time. They are dubbed party ferries on the weekends because of the duty free drinks and the people who can't get enough of it! They're pretty cheap too. Even a first class cabin for the round trip costs less than a 2 night stay in a decent to good New Delhi hotel. The Tallink group and the Viking group are two very popular ferry service providers.



We steamed into the Helsinki harbor the next day. But popular online bloggers advise me to limit my blog posts to less than five hundred words, so that will be a story for another day! 

Stay tuned to InsideEurope for more posts about travel in Scandinavia and travel hacks. Did you like the blog? Do you have suggestions or tips? Please give me a shout in the comments section below!


The main deck of the ship

The green scum on the sea surface. Signs of a dead zone.

The setting sun. But no night for Scandinavia, only a dusk and dawn!


Try spotting the horizon!

The island is not that small! That's how high the deck is!

 

Smart and functional cabins!

The Promenade deck of the ship



The ship's route across the Baltic
(Photo credits to my awesome family!)

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Of Murren and beyond!


Murren
29 May 2011

The Alpine village of Murren




Our last day in Switzerland! We wanted to have a nice and quiet day, spent in walking leisurely and taking our own time to look at everything. Murren seemed perfect for it! We'd been in Murren the previous day, just to change to a different cable car on our way up to Schilthorn, but what we saw of Murren from the car was enough to entice us!






Murren is a small mountain village in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland. Located at a height of 1650 metres, it is a very famous tourist spot and remains so through out the year, sun or snow. This is very evident from the fact that even though Murren has a population of only about 500, it has hotel beds numbering upwards of 2000! The Murren - Schilthorn area is the highest altitude playground of the Bernese Oberland. It features snow boarding, skiing, sledging among many other snow sports, from the 'gentle' ones to ones bordering on the extreme!. Murren in fact hosts the largest amateur skiing races in the world, the Inferno races. So, yes it is pretty 'cool' in the winter, but we were in Murren smack in the middle of summer! Was it just as interesting?

I'd say it was even better!

A view from the Funicular to Murren
Today we used a different route to get to Murren. The Lauterbrunnen BLM station, where BLM stands for Bergbahn Lauterbrunnen Murren, is just opposite the main train station, the BOB or Bernese Oberland Bahn station. From the BLM station, a cable car took us to the Grutschalp station located just above Lauterbrunnen. It is nothing but a station where the passengers from the aerial cable way from Lauterbrunnen get connected to the Funicular ride to Murren. A funicular is a train which uses cables to support itself on mountain climbs. Our funicular was spaciously built, with extra wide windows, giving us a superb view of the Lauterbrunnen valley and the peaks opposite. We reached the Murren BLM station which happens to be a stone's throw from the Murren LSMS station. LSMS stands for Luftseilbahn Stechelberg Murren Schilthorn, the aerial cable way we used the previous day to get to Schilthorn. I am stressing this part because we were really confused about the terms LSMS, BLM, etc, and we had to ask around a lot (a real lot!) before we got on the right track. The otherwise perfect Swiss railway seems to fail a tiny bit on this one issue, but no harm done, now you know!

Built in 1861! The other years are those in which it was
renovated only on the inside
It was a sunny day and the roads were deserted, Murren has no cars. Most of the houses here were more than a century old, traditional Swiss architecture. Earthen flower pots hung outside and the houses were built with strong Alpine wood which now looked weather beaten. But the houses had no plans of giving up in the near future! The houses dated back to the 19th century, as can be seen in the pictures, and over this period, we were told that the outside was not altered at all! We were looking at the houses as they would have been in the 19th century! That would have taken some really good planning on the part of the builders and architects as Murren gets it share of bad weather every year.

Not a professional picture but this one is my favourite! I love the web!
(That's my 'wall' in the background)
In Murren, you look down at the vast Lauterbrunnen valley and also have astounding views of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. I had been fascinated with the huge, steep and blank rocky 'walls' of the Lauterbrunnen valley since yesterday. I now rediscovered my love for them! Staring blankly at Murren, towering over it, stood a gigantic brown wall. I liked nothing better than to look at it and wonder and wonder! What was I wondering about? I don't know! But I did find out that I love heights very much and I was planning on skydiving the next time I got a chance! Murren is a splendid location, one where you can walk into the past, admire the views or just 'chill' in the small cafés by the road. I urge those travelling to Switzerland to pay a visit to this amazing mountain village.

The road to nowhere. My favourite road!

After we toured the entire village, I found us a small mountain road leading to an unknown place. This road, I felt, was enough to tempt the laziest of the couch potatoes to come out and take a walk! Marvellous views, the Alpine wilderness surrounding us and the sun shining down patiently, there was no better way to get close to nature! We trekked for quite some distance on this road before walking back.





Unbearably glorious! 
We made our way back to Interlaken slowly and packed our bags. We did some day shopping and explored what little was left of Interlaken. Our return trip to Eindhoven was a bit longish and involved many transfers because we had booked our tickets quite late. We had to change trains at Basel, Mannheim and at Dusseldorf. At the next station Viersen, Germany, everyone got off the train, we found out that we had to get to Venlo, The Netherlands by bus. It was 24 kilometres away, a 25 minute journey. From Venlo, we had a direct train to Eindhoven. Back home!

Our trip might have ended but this post hasn't! In the next section, I have included all the tips and ideas we've picked up about travelling smart in Switzerland. You can read ahead if you need them, be sure to take a look at the photos in the end!

The best thing we could have done about our trip was the purchase of a Swiss pass. It cut our travel expenditure by a large amount and also saved us a lot of time. The Swiss travel system offers different passes among which we can choose, depending on our family, the number of days of stay and the places we want to visit. It offers discounts at tourist spots and you get to pay half the usual amount there. So I strongly urge anyone travelling to Switzerland to look up this great tool.

Regarding transport, Switzerland is on the clock, trains follow schedules perfectly, buses are accurate to the minute and such. But when on a tour, there's no saying when or where you will be delayed. Train transfers, many times are a tight squeeze, sometimes with less than three minutes between transfers. So you would be at a loss if somehow you miss even a single train! Then at each station you have to search for the next train to the next place and so on, and the end of the journey the delays would have costed you a lot. We do not want that to happen on a perfect holiday, do we?

To avoid this, we took printouts of our schedule and subsequent timings of alternate trains. Its actually very easy! For example look up this timetable. You are given four alternate timings at each stop in case you miss one train. Now this, is going to be your saviour at a time of need! Believe me, we've experienced it and you will thank SBB with all your heart for making your trip!

The next best thing we did would be us finding out about the Myswissalps website. As I had mentioned in my Switzerland Part-1 post, it has a forum which is monitored by many experienced mediators and fellow travellers. You can ask for help and ideas from anything regarding Switzerland, be it food, accommodation or travel. This would be the best way to start your preparation as advice is just a question away!

Collect brochures! We found out that collecting brochures of places is an useful thing to do! It is not very hard, as every train station or tourist spot in Switzerland has plenty of brochures about tourist spots and cities. The phone numbers, the maps, info about public transit and other such thoughtful info included in these would be very helpful to you while you travel. Also when return and decide to blog about your experience, they help to jog your memory, to recollect forgotten details and tongue twisting names!

Don't hesitate to inquire! Problems, however small they may seem, have an uncanny knack of ballooning up! So whatever question you have about anything at all, just ask at numerous help desks available at any train station or tourist spot.

Carry your passport. Even though it is not necessary to carry your passport with you, it is strongly advised to. We were told that we didn't need to take our passports on our trip, yet we were asked for it on the train! Luckily, we'd packed it in a last minute hunch. So passports are a big yes!

Book early. Be it trains or hotels or cruises, book early, because the prices increase if you book late and your train journeys will involve lots of transfers and cost more!

So ended our trip to Switzerland, a perfect trip in an amazing country, one which has given me a lot of memories to cherish.
Eternally beautiful! The Alps! 

A breathtaking view of the Bernese Alps from Murren
Murren! Looks more like one big home than many little ones!
Archaic!
Al-pines!
The sky blue waters of the Thunersee!

That's a cow!

At the Grutschalp station

A view of the Lauterbrunnen valley from Murren
Waiting at Mannheim


Switzerland - Get natural!