Sunday, July 27, 2014

Oslo-A modern European capital.

Oslo, the capital of Norway, is set well to the west and a bit to the north of Stockholm, capital of neigbouring Sweden. The journey by train to Oslo one filled with wonder and awe. The train journey takes you right across the heart of Sweden, from it’s archipelagic eastern borders to it’s greener, western country side dotted with birch trees. The slowly rising and falling hills of the Swedish landscape faded into the distance as the train covered the long miles to our destination. We stopped at various stations along the way with vaguely Russian sounding names: Karlstad, Kristinehamn, Ulricehamn; the rest slip from my memory.

I gazed at all the greenery around me and wondered; in the short month that lay between the snow and spring, the trees had managed to grow back all their leaves, flowers were blooming and the grass covered vast fields in the middle of which small clumps of trees stood like islands in the open sea. The scenery I was slowly taking in reminded me of Middle-earth, the fictional land from the books of my favourite author J.R.R Tolkien, with its untainted landscapes and perfect beauty described by skilful words and wonderful poems. The land walked by my favourite fictional characters, a land of strange landscapes and stranger people. During that journey, I could understand Tolkien as never before, and for that, I have only the Swedish people to thank, for preserving their lands and everything in it.


Oslo is not far from the Norway-Sweden border and is set on the banks of the Inner Oslofjord, a scenic inlet dotted with islands. We arrived in the Oslo Sentral Stasjon, a vast area set smack in the heart of the city. There from of the many counters manned by the kindly Norwegians, we purchased one day transport passes; all manner of public transport in Oslo was now accessible to us. We set off to our hotel immediately, for we were carrying quite a bit of luggage and we were anxious to cool off. 


Our hotel was called the Best Western Apartment hotel set in the Gamle Oslo, or the old Oslo locality. We were taken aback for a moment by the lavishness of the room we were given. For although the price for a one night stay was more than 10 times that of a similar Indian hotel, it was pretty cheap for European standards. Some rest, testing the wi-fi and a glass of coffee later, we set out for the tourist info centre, near the Oslo city hall.




Tourist info, you think might be cliched and no longer that necessary with the advent of the internet and online booking services, but no matter how much home work you do before coming to a city, the tourist info centre is THE place to go for the latest deals and advice on how to best use your passes. With help from a young Norwegian, we made a plan of everything that we should do over the two days.

Standing right by the info centre was the Oslo city hall. A majestic |_| shaped building, it was a splendid piece of architecture. Now, everyone knows that the Nobel prize ceremony is held in Stockholm every year, but what many don’t know is that the Nobel peace prize, won by the likes of Martin Luther King Jr., Nelson Mandela, Mother Teresa and more recently, Barack Obama, is awarded every year in a ceremony organized in the Oslo city hall, the jury being entirely Norwegian. Not a very surprising decision on the part of Alfred Nobel, considering the peaceful nature of the peoples of Norway. A very short distance behind the city hall lies the Inner Oslofjord, and on its banks are many piers and pontoons moored securely and all manner of water transport lined them. 

We slowly walked by the ships, some were commercial ships and tourist ferries and some were sleek and dangerous looking Norwegian naval vessels. We had to walk a couple of kilometers to get on a ferry across the Oslofjord to the various islands. As we finally got on the ferry, the mid-summer sun that had been hiding behind scattered clouds all this while finally broke through and blazed with all its glory. Being completely exposed on the open top deck of the ferry, we tried in vain to ward off the sun with small tourist brochures. 



The beauty of the place however, made me momentarily forget the heat. Oslo was surrounded by green and gently rising hills. In the stark afternoon light, the clear waters of the Oslofjord sparkled like diamonds and the islands of the inlet rose out of the water like huge ships. Everywhere around there was a calmness, ships floated lazily in and out the harbour, tourists were busy clicking pictures and birds flew above slowly gliding on the gentle winds. Since Oslo, or any Scandinavian city for that matter, gets only a few months of summer, the locals use it to their best. Oslo has countless green spaces, large and small. The islands overflow with sun bathing tourists and in no time our return ferry was filled to bursting. Though on the bright side, now we at least had shade!

Once the ferry docked, we walked to the Opera house, a short distance away. Dazzling white, it was like a beacon even in the stark sunshine. It resembled a huge ice berg slanting out of the waters of the inlet. It was an amazing piece of architecture with an impressive view of the surrounding buildings. Just behind was a cluster of ultra modern buildings, the famous Barcode project. Those buildings really surprised me. Visiting many different European cities, I was under the impression that the central area of any European city would be a symbol of preservation and a haven of ancient buildings. Now here I was, staring at many high rises in the heart of the city. The reason for that I found out later, was that the whole area surrounding the Opera house had been under water, well into the 19th century. So all the buildings in the area are relatively modern. While this area had been excavated, archaeologists had found nine sunken ships in the waters!
                                                                                                                  -to be continued

This is the first part of a multi-part series on modern day Scandinavia. Please let me know if you enjoyed it and more importantly so if you didn't, as I am always looking for ways to improve. Thank you for taking time off to read the article, come back for more!

(Click on the images to get a bigger view.)


















Saturday, July 12, 2014

How to experience Helsinki in 6 hours

After spending 16 hours on a cruise from Stockholm, we finally docked at the Helsinki west harbour. We had around 6 hours to spend in Helsinki before catching the cruise on the return trip. Now, exploring any European city in 6 hours is not an easy task (or so we thought). So we had planned on visiting only the best attractions here and not waste any time at all.

(The thing about Helsinki is that it is a really, really small city and whatever important places are there to see can be reached by foot. So if you're a cruise visitor or are here for short visit, don't buy any public transport passes.)





1. The market square
Set near the waterline, the square is like any regular crowded, peaceful European market.  Navigating your way through the masses of people and the well aimed droppings from the evil sea gulls above, you are presented with a wide variety of shops selling sea food and souvenirs, and cafes and pastry shops. A very lively place and very popular with the tourists; just be careful if you're eating something, the seagulls are ruthless and experienced thieves!









2.  The Senate square
The heart of Heksinki and its most popular tourist spot, the square is surrounded by the Government palace, the Helsinki cathedral and the main building of the Helsinki university. The square is a popular concert location and also hosts a variety of art exhibitions. The most dominating feature of the square however is the humongous cathedral.




3. The Helsinki cathedral
At the north end of Senate square, rising high above the rest of the city, the cathedral, Tuomiokirkko in Finnish, is a feat of neoclassical architecture. It’s based on the Saint Isaac's cathedral in St. Petersburg and is a must see for all Helsinki tourists. (Seriously, don't miss it. There's nothing else to see here.)






4. The Rock church
As the name suggests, the church was excavated from solid rock. One of the most visited places in the city, it is a popular concert location due to its excellent acoustics. A great place to visit to get a few moments of silence and peace in a busy city.










5. The Parliament
An impressive building to behold, it is one of the few buildings worth seeing here in Helsinki. I would recommend visiting this along with the museum of contemporary art located just opposite.






Courtesy: Wikipedia



6. Stockmann’s department store
Yes, that’s how boring Helsinki gets. A department store becomes a famous tourist spot. However, it’s seven floors of goods make it worth seeing.






Helsinki was very disappointing, to say the least. When you go to an European capital, you want to be inspired; you want to drink in the long and glorious histories of the city and its people; you go there expecting a trip that would have changed you as a person. That is exactly what you get when you visit Amsterdam, Paris or Stockholm, or even little Luxembourg. Helsinki was not so. In the end, the six hours we thought to be too less, turned out to be too much for the city and we spent an hour on the ship doing nothing. 

However, all this said, it is a relatively new city, a few hundred years old, with no great history or even an old town. It is a peculiar mix of Sweden and Russia, but sharing it’s complete eastern border with Russia and originally being a part of Sweden, that’s no great mystery. Also, contrary to popular belief, Finland is not one of the Scandinavian countries, but rather the Nordic countries. Helsinki is a great city, no doubt, with a very important global foot print, it's just not for the casual tourist.



The Helsinki skyline

The Helsinki cathedral

Suomenlinna fort